It is easier to
view the visitors than the paintings, which they obscure to a depth of three
ranks before each work. Daylight is glimpsed through a crowd of night clouds dressed
in Melbourne black. Daylight is pale blue dobs beside leafgreen jabs, night is
someone’s back. Contrasts are irresistible, Impressionist impressions
irrefutable. Par exemple, Parisians do not prop their glasses on top of their
forehead. Baring forearms in a salon is unheard of. No one during the belle époque
drags their lazy handbag behind them across the floor. Where buttons are
supplied, Parisians are given to buttoning up, whereas visitors tend to affect
the hang loose shirt. While if Parisians do wear rubbersoled running shoes the
artist has kept that feature outside the frame, though it be the most common
footwear of Melburnians to a gallery. Paris shares with Melbourne a belief in
the colour black, in as much as black is a colour, but draws the line at
fluorescent pink whether as shoe, coat, hair, or accessory. Jockeys at Longchamp
will wear fluorescent pink. Best to rest a while on an accommodating circular
divan, not going anywhere soon. Visitors shuffle from one France to the next,
like one of the slow marches of Erik Satie. They travelled here at immense
speeds using gasoline to spend an hour or two at a dawdle. Pince-nez are out of
fashion, but one learned elder inspects through his Giorgio Armani vintage
eyewear an interior that almost caused a riot. The hours and weeks spent
sitting for Edgar Degas get a second glance in this ambience, at most, but for
the two ladies with pepper-and-salt hair talking in high tones the solemnity of
the couple in oils staring them down. Horse and carriage, or a flirt with
flaneuring, are the means they took to be here. The things visitors say to a
painting. Weekend visitors with bills to pay and mortgages express shock at the
price tag of a sloppy boulevard. Found a favourite, Charlotte? I want a selfie
of me with Renoir. Such heights of enshrined respectability hang demonstrably
opulent for artists who wished to make all things new. Preliminary Final Day is
not recommended for visiting the Impressionists at the Gallery. Families make a
beeline for a still-life with flowers, promises then of an ice-cream. Everyone
wants to be part of the revolution, divan or no divan. Grand Final Day is the
best option, as everyone in Melbourne has foregone galleries, eyes fixed that
afternoon on the oval or a screen. In a few hours it will all be over bar the
shouting. Visitors, meanwhile, may spend the entire afternoon in front of Claude
Monet, without interruption, soaking up the manmade ponds.

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