Re-reading Proust. After the madeleine story, he ripples
out pictures of childhood Combray, recalls a kitchen discussion about the
virtues of asparagus. This unlikely vegetable turns slowly into the perfect
mnemonic, proving that anything sensual may serve as a madeleine. I consider
how memory is provoked in me. My grandmother’s trays of fruit-mince slice. Her
chocolate gingers. Or my mother’s very exotic chow mein, in particular the
salty soy sauce. ‘What is patriotism but the love of the good things we ate in
our childhood?’ asks Lin Yutang. Asparagus was fine soft, but being Australian
we called it ‘sparra’s guts’.
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